Best belay carabiner for grigri As if for some reason you forget to put your belay loop behind the anti-cross loading mechanism, it will just harmlessly be pulled down into the bottom of the carabiner via the spring loaded gate that opens downward and then locks moving upward. The Gridlock family of carabiners are specifically designed for belay devices. Petzl Attache. 5 to 11 mm: 200g / 7. Dec 13, 2023 · The GriGri can also put a lot more weight on the rope: “For the general public…what they want to do is a [single rope] rappel, which puts four times the amount of weight on half as much rope,” said Delap. You’re welcome. The wide top bar of these carabiners allows the rope to run smoothly over them and gives lots of space to comfortably attach double ropes or tie a munter hitch. Active assisted braking: Cragging, all around use: Trango Vergo: $100: 9 oz. Jun 23, 2020 · Clepsydra L ANGELIKA RAINER (Italia)I always use it to belay with the Grigri at the crag. Petzl makes some good ones that’ll pair well with it. When the rope is taut, the carabiner and the device are held in position by the tension. 2 - Clip an ascender to the rope above the Grigri. I feel that anyone using the GriGri as their belay device can use this carabiner for safety and protection. The middle row are the light/compact style, and the bottom row are the belay specific lockers. Petzl GriGri is a climbing belay device with an assisted braking system. Sep 15, 2020 · – Best Belay Carabiner – Mammut Smart HMS – Best Belay Carabiner For GriGri – Black Diamond Magnetron Gridlock – Best Budget Belay Carabiner – Black Diamond RockLock Screwgate. Jan 2, 2019 · The Grigri 2 is a smaller lighter version of the original, they still offer it and is what most people use, has and will continue to be a great product. DMM Ceros Screwgate Carabiner. Feb 15, 2018 · Grivel’s twin-gate carabiners create safer, faster and stronger biners and have been on the market for a few years. Your statement would make me nervous to climb with you - only a bad carpenter blames his tools. The advantage of a pear shaped biner is that is has a large area for holding ropes, which is useful if you need to tie a clove hitch to it, or use it for a double rope rappel. 5mm, pairs well with any HMS locking carabiner, and lowers smoothly and securely even when it’s the 20th lowering of the day. Therefore, the best uses for the Grigri are belaying climbers and descending (via rappelling, also known as abseiling). g. HMS carabiners are for belay devices where the carabiner makes contact with the rope, grigri isn't one of those. 7mm and 10. Designed to be used with the Petzl Grigri (but just as effective with any belay device), the Freino belay carabiner is a 3 ounce autolocking unit that has a secondary gate and basket - yes, you may call it a spur to establish techno-superiority - that provides additional braking. Jul 25, 2023 · Best Uses for the Grigri. It can be used on all dynamic single strings on the market from 8. Carabiners for GRIGRI. 10 top rope range, looking to lead in due time) looking for some advice on purchasing a belay device and carabiner. Jan 9, 2018 · Customers find this carabiner to be a great belay tool with a strong, secure design that works well with gri-gri systems. This is actually where the acronym “HMS” comes from — the German word for a Munter is (with typical German bombast): “Halbmastwurfsicherung. It’s tricky to lower smoothly, especially without belay gloves. 05 oz: 140: Mammut Nordwand: Best affordable Read why: Tubular Belay Device: 7. Newer models have slimmed it down and improved upon its features. The clearance of the internal bar is much smaller. Important Specs; 2. Nov 9, 2023 · The Petzl Attache is the #1 most owned currently available carabiner. Apr 27, 2021 · The Mega Jul is a little finicky — it behaves best with certain carabiners (beefy HMS belay ‘biners work best), and it takes some getting used to. Cross-loading of a carabiner occurs when the force is not oriented along the spine, which is engineered to be the strongest orientation, and I like the Ocun Condor HMS, and other carabiners like this like the DMM Ceros and Metolius Gatekeeper. Sep 14, 2020 · Comes in three colors – orange, purple, and grey. Not the lightest, and pretty much a purpose built belay carabiner so might not be appropriate in all situations, but it does what it does well. Belaying a Lead Climber. On top are the HMS/pear style. the black diamond Gridlock or mammut’s bionic crosslock carabiner) is your best bet. Better still, get yourself an auto-locking HMS carabiner. You use it in conjunction with an assisted belay device. This We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Take a look at the top 10 picks for the best belay and rappelling carabiners for your partner so you can have the best rappelling and belaying experience possible. It is designed to facilitate belaying maneuvers and works equally well for belaying the leader and the ropes. E. Jul 19, 2019 · Alex Z wrote: I've been having problems where I accidentally crossload my locking carabiner (Petzl Attache) while belaying someone on lead. Feb 7, 2019 · 1 - Feed the rope through your Grigri, and attach the Grigri to your belay loop with a large locking carabiner, just like you would for belaying. Oct 22, 2020 · The Black Diamond Gridlock carabiner is designed to minimize cross loading. , the Petzl attaché has a pear shape -- which end should face my harness and why? It's not a critical decision, both types of carabiners will function perfectly with a Gri-Gri. May 28, 2024 · Petzl Gri Gri + Best overall Read why: Assisted Braking Device: 8. The same horn that keeps it from crossloading makes it really easy for the grigri to fall off the carabiner when you're opening it, creating a higher risk of dropping your belay device. Basically the Grigri can become loaded in such a way that fall force applies torque to the carabiner and the sheer force breaks the carabiner. Position the small end of the carabiner inside the belay device and use the large end on your belay loop. Petzl (along with Black Diamond) is one of the most readily available carabiner brands. . FRANCOIS CAZZANELLI (Italia)It is my inseparable climbing partner at the crag. May 20, 2020 · The Petzl GriGri totally changed the game for belaying on its release back in 1991. Feb 29, 2024 · Note: The example pictured above is a little misleading in that, when using the Gridlock with a GriGri (specifically this combo), it’s best to use the carabiner upside down, so the GriGri is attached to the belay keeper area. However, the best option is an HMS locking carabiner. Its safety is its best feature. 0 Belay Device’s assisted braking will give you a hand. I love it soooo much. Pair with the Gridlock Magnetron carabiner for the perfect belay pair. What we don’t: Heavy, expensive, and requires a bit of a learning curve; cannot be used for double-rope rappelling. This carabiner is specifically designed for use with a Grigri and has a couple of cool features that make belaying safer and easier. The document has moved here. Mar 12, 2025 · Petzl’s almost universally loved GriGri has one of the most as is the belay carabiner clipping point. One of Grivel’s best twin-gate biners for belaying is the Plume, but the wires are too wide to fit into a GriGri. Petzl Attache: The Best Overall. It is more heavy and the autocamming allows it to be a device that does lots of extra things really easy. This only happens with my grigri, I haven't had problems with my atc albeit with a different locking carabiner (Camp HMS compact lock). But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. The belay/rappel system’s carabiner is frequently used on its own, with no possibility for redundancy. 9 mm to 10. 5 to 11 mm (optimized for 8. Preferred orientation is to use a small offset d shaped carabiner, not a pear shaped HMS. com : PETZL GRIGRI Belay Device with Sm'D Twist-Lock Carabiner - Belay Device with Cam-Assisted Blocking for Sport, Trad, & Top-Rope Climbing - Grey : Sports & Outdoors Mar 13, 2024 · Amazon. Jan 23, 2024 · After you've purchased a dedicated locker for your Gri-Gri or other assisted belay device and a solid pear-shaped locker for use with an ATC on multi-pitch routes, we think you should fill out the rest of your locker selection with lightweight and versatile offset-Ds, of which the Sm'D is easily the best choice. However, a second locking carabiner clipped to a higher anchor piece could also be used for less money, and in general we prefer to use an auto-locking ATC such as the Petzl Reverso or ATC Guide to belay up a seconding climber, as they are more secure for this use (and a lot lighter and less clunky to carry up) than a GriGri. By Jul 11, 2024 · Best Overall Belay Device Petzl Grigri ($110) Style: Assisted-braking What we like: Assisted braking allows for a more secure belay. Technically speaking, the Grigri is a belaying and descending device. Black Diamond Gridlock. Jan 7, 2019 · PETZL GRIGRI Belay Device - Belay Device with Cam-Assisted Blocking for Sport, Trad, and Top-Rope Climbing Visit the PETZL Store 4. And it isn't bad. This is not an extensive list of every carabiner that works well for a GRIGRI, but does show each of the various styles that people use to limit the chance of cross-loading a carabiner. The disadvantage is that because the load is shared more evenly between the spine side and the gate side (wh Jun 10, 2019 · The DMM Ceros is virtually impossible to cross load, which adds a higher degree of security while belaying. For ATC, a smooth oval one is best. 8 4. 3 days ago · You might think that all carabiners are the same, but a suitable belay carabiner can make all the difference when it comes to releasing slack, dropping safely, and avoiding tragedies. The Grigri plus is best described as being great for newer climbers or designed for use in a rock gym where people may have less experience belaying. TWIST-LOCK auto-locking helps reduce the risk of forgetting to lock the carabiner, while maintaining a good speed of use. Feb 2, 2022 · The grigri tends to stay in place anyway with the Edelrid bulletproof as there isn't much slack around the hole in the grigri so movement is limited. Same story on rappels Apr 16, 2022 · Really positive triple action auto lock, little bump on the spine to keep the grigri from sliding around and crossloading, wire gate keeper for belay loop end. 5 to 10. Its basically the love child of an ATC and a grigri. I eventually bought a steel oval for my grigri after I got bored of replacing belay biners every year. The #1 most owned carabiner ever is the now retired Black Diamond Positron (screwgate). Things like escape the belay, belay and lower from the top and you can even use it as a ghetto Jumar. Otherwise, using the Gridlock in the “normal” configuration, the GriGri can still find itself in a cross-loaded May 4, 2021 · Out of habit, many climbers always reach for a large, pear shaped, “HMS” belay carabiner anytime they are belaying. 8 out of 5 stars 2,568 ratings 4 days ago · The Best Belay Device. If the carabiner opens or breaks, the user will certainly fall. I specifically switched to this setup to prevent cross loading. (Note that the ascender is usually for your non-dominant hand; ie, right handed climbers ideally should use a left handed acender. The Grivel Clepsydra carabiner just might be the best tool for the job: the twin gates will never freeze or jangle open, and the keeper gate prevents cross loading. Andy Kirkpatrick writes about how a Grigri can break a carabiner in a real-world scenario using examples of when it actually happened. The gate opens Jun 21, 2023 · Our Selection of the 9 Best Climbing Carabiners of 2025. With this carabiner just a click and safety is guaranteed one hundred percent. Plus, it has a bonus feature as part of a minimalist hauling system. Aug 15, 2019 · All of the lockers tested for our Best Locking Carabiner Review, with a Petzl Gri-Gri two for size reference. I would say its not the most protective piece for gri gri use though… when i bought my first carabiner to belay, i was told that the shape and size of petzl’s William-screw lock carabiner adds some safety as well as reduced wear while using a gri gri. Also how does the shape of the carabiner affect things and which orientation should it have? I. Oct 12, 2023 · D carabiners were the second carabiner shape to exist commercially and their shape looked exactly like the letter D. The carabiner effectively prevents cross-loading and features a reliable locking mechanism. Aug 13, 2024 · The biggest divergence is although the side plates have a hole for a locking carabiner, the Edelrid Pinch can attach directly to the belay loop as long as it’s less than 3/4-inch wide. 5 mm strings). We recommend it as the Best Carabiner For Grigri use. However, being so different from a regular belay device means that the best carabiner for the GriGri is a bit different than standard. But for a grigri, a small D-shaped carabiner is best. Thankfully, the Mammut Smart 2. A traditional carabiner in a cross-loaded orientation will usually rotate and "pop" back to normal, but a GriGri/Cinch in the improperly loaded as shown above is unable to pop back into place and it's within the realm of possibility (although unlikely) to subject it to sufficient force to break the carabiner. Moved Permanently. But when the rope is slack, the device and its carabiner can move about and become poorly positioned. 17 oz: 110: Black Diamond ATC Pilot: Best for gym Aug 15, 2019 · The DMM Rhino is our favorite carabiner to belay with, especially when belaying with an active assisted braking device such as a Petzl GriGri or Trango Vergo, which is why we recognize it as a Top Pick. 5 to 11 mm: 175 g / 6. Aug 31, 2021 · HMS ‘biners tend to make the best belay carabiners. The result is a compre Oct 25, 2023 · Petzl GriGri: Why this choice? The D shape helps resist carabiner rotation. Mar 13, 2024 · Amazon. The DMM Ceros Screwgate Carabiner is – quite possibly – the best belay carabiner ever created. I can say with confidence that the Petzl NEOX is the best ABD for lead climbing on Mar 13, 2024 · Amazon. A grigri is my personal favorite belay device for gym and sport. For Revo, idk. Jun 11, 2014 · GriGri goes in the small side of a Gridlock This is actually dangerous. Works on double ropes, set up is as simple as an ATC, smoothest in guide mode of anything I've used and is much lighter and much cheaper then a grigri. I have the petzl freino belaying carabiner. Because if you were then it wouldn't matter whether you belay with an ATC or a GriGri because you should be prepared and confident to belay with either. 1 oz. com : PETZL GRIGRI Belay Device with Sm'D Twist-Lock Carabiner - Belay Device with Cam-Assisted Blocking for Sport, Trad, & Top-Rope Climbing - Red : Sports & Outdoors But when the rope is slack, the device and its carabiner can move about and become poorly positioned. When using this carabiner with a Grigri, Black Diamond recommends that you clip the wide part of the carabiner to your harness, and the narrow end to the belay device: opposite the normal way you would use a carabiner. Oct 1, 2018 · As a belay 'biner, it's not as chunky as I'm used to – but, that's a personal preference. com : PETZL GRIGRI Belay Device with Sm'D Twist-Lock Carabiner - Belay Device with Cam-Assisted Blocking for Sport, Trad, & Top-Rope Climbing - Blue : Sports & Outdoors Nov 8, 2023 · For glacier travel, it's usually best practice to clip, not tie, to the rope. Why Is Carabiner Shape Important? The HMS or Pear-shaped biner (essentially the same thing) has one smaller end and one larger/wider end. Petzl Sm'D Twist-Lock Carabiner: The Best for Belaying with a Grigri I like to belay top rope with a GriGri - what is the best carabiner design for this setup? Is a Petzl Attaché screw-lock ok? I also have a Camp Orbit 2 auto lock. I’m only 100 lbs, and it really helps me give a good belay and a comfortable controlled lower. 82 oz: 30: Petzl Gri Gri: Best for beginners Read why: Assisted Braking Device: 8. For belay devices, I am between the ATC XP and the ATC Pilot: Long days at the crag can mean belaying fatigue. 5 mm: 80 g / 2. It's built for ropes between 8. The DMM Sentinel is designed to be used with the DMM Bugette belay device, so it's perfectly able as a belay carabiner. Their wide baskets make for easy setup and smooth feeding, and the width is also necessary if you ever have to belay off a Munter hitch. But it works great for multi-pitch routes belaying in guide mode. The best thing about this carabiner is that it gives you better control when lowering off during the climb. (In case you’re wondering what “HMS” means, it’s an acronym for the German, “Halbmastwurf sicherung”, which loosely translates as “Munter hitch belay” carabiner. The Ceros is a fine carabiner though - my most regular partner uses one, and I've never thought it was anything but a good piece of equipment. They appreciate its light weight and ease of use, with one customer noting it's easy to put on quickly. If you want to for sure prevent crossloading, an 8-shaped carabiner (e. The Attache has been Petzl’s go-to belay locking carabiner for years. A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. Comparison Table; 1. It allows the device to take some of the weight off of you when lowering a partner heavier than you. Beginner climber (a few years it a very low frequency, 5. Designed specifically for belaying, the intuitive, easy-to-use GridLock isolates the belay loop behind its uniquely shaped gate, thereby keeping the carabi There's a sport version (one rope, functionally, its a grigri) and the alpine version, which though called "alpine" works well for all climbing. Similar to keeping bolt end and rope end biners on draws separate. But it can be an appealing belay device because it offers a smoother, faster descent. When using it, there is no need to rech Aug 15, 2019 · This is great for getting belay devices or knots on or off the nose of the carabiner, but this also comes with a catch. Nov 8, 2024 · XINDA Screwgate Locking Carabiner Clip - Professional Rock Climbing Carabiner Screw Lock,Heavy Duty Carabiners for Climbing,Mountaineer,Hammock,Camping,Outdoor Equipment 4. The Best Device to Use in a Pinch Sep 21, 2023 · Belay Device Price Weight Style Best for; Petzl GriGri: $110: 6. ” Dec 15, 2021 · In principle, any locking carabiner can be used to belay from above. There is only one device to attach, so a wide opening and high capacity are not necessary. Passive assisted braking: Single pitch climbing I have the same carabiner, and enjoy its mechanism while cleaning with a leash outside. In my experience, the Rhino is a great belay carabiner for gym and single pitch, but I don't like using it with my grigri on multi-pitch. One of the best uses for a Grigri is belaying a leader climber. The grigri can put notches in the narrow end, which you then don't want abrading your belay loop when you're using an ATC. Since it is attached to the gate, it can easily inhibit the gate from opening if a belay loop or GriGri isn't positioned correctly within its small ring. 8 out of 5 stars 4,548 1 offer from $3699 $ 36 99 With its revolutionary, patent-pending design made possible by our in-house hot forge, the Black Diamond GridLock Screwgate eliminates the dangers of cross loading. The classic D shape is symmetrical and naturally sets the rope closer to the spine, putting the load on the spine (versus sharing the load with the weaker gate side, like an oval). Mar 1, 2023 · If you have a GriGri II, this carabiner fits perfectly, especially if you are on the heavy side and use a thinner rope. The thumb loop is an intuitive way to unlock the device, but it requires a new technique for feeding slack. An ingenious little protrusion on the carabiner’s spine prevents the GriGri from sliding down onto the spine, and the mini gate at the base of the carabiner keeps the Ceros from shifting once its clipped to your harness belay loop. BlackDiamond GridLock Belay Screw Gate paired with the GriGri is bomber. zugnvmzoqggowusyvpbqatbyzivrdjbftzmitdpkhxuaseowcydqzppucbbvjpyifjvrboajtadedzevsxrupy